Oh, Fransson!

Charm Squares 101

I'm leading the activity (a Charm Square Swap and associated fun) at the May meeting of the Portland Modern Quilt Guildand have written this post mainly for the PMQG peeps who wanted additional information on cutting charm squares.  It's general information though, so hopefully others will also find it useful!

 
So, what's a charm square anyway?

In the parlance of our times, a charm square is a 5" x 5" square of fabric.  Today, packages including one or more squares of each fabric in a collection are available from many fabric companies.  Packages like these can be a good way to get a little piece of all of the fabrics in a collection at a reasonable price.  Today's quilters also cut their own charm squares from yardage, fat quarters, and scraps. 

The concept of a Charm Quilt has been around for years.  Traditionally, the Charm Quilt concept involved making an entire quilt using a different fabric for every single piece.  Because this necessarily involved more different fabrics than most quilters had on hand, swapping charm squares became common.  One popular trend was for a quilter to cut two squares, one for her own quilt and one to swap with a friend.

Following are some basic instructions/calculations for cutting your own charm squares. 

Note: Before cutting charm squares, make sure your fabric is freshly pressed.

 
Cutting Charm Squares from Yardage:

Start by laying your folded fabric on your cutting mat.  Square up your fabric and cut a straight edge along one side, as shown above.

Measuring from your straight edge, cut a 5" x width of fabric strip. 

Note: in the above photo, I've moved around to the other side of my cutting table to make the second cut.  For maximum accuracy, I recommend cutting on a table where you can do this.  If walking around your table isn't possible, carefully turn your cutting mat around, so as not to disturb your fabric.

 
Squaring your ruler up with both sides of the 5" strip, cut away the selvage edges of the fabric.  (Your fabric should still be folded in half, so you'll be making one cut through both layers.)

Measuring from the former selvage edge, cut four 5" x 5" squares, as shown above. 

Because those cuts were made through two layers of fabric, this will result in a total of 8 charm squares. 

So, as we just learned, a 5" x width of fabric* strip will produce 8 charm squares.  If you're buying yardage to cut multiple charm squares for a swap, you can use the following as a guide:

• 1/4 yard = 1 strip 5" x WOF (8 charm squares)
• 3/8 yard = 2 strips 5" x WOF (16 charm squares)
• 1/2 yard = 3 strips 5" x WOF (24 charm squares)
• 5/8 yard = 4 strips 5" x WOF (32 charm squares)
• 3/4 yard = 5 strips 5" x WOF (40 charm squares)
• 7/8 yard = 6 strips 5" x WOF (48 charm squares)
• 1 yard = 7 strips 5" x WOF (56 charm squares)

*These calculations are based on standard cotton print fabric that is about 42" wide.  If you're using more narrow fabric, you may end up with fewer squares.  Wider fabric will obviously produce more squares.

Cutting Charm Squares from Fat Quarters:

A standard (approximately 18" x 21") fat quarter will produce 12 charm squares.

Lay your fat quarter on your cutting mat, as shown above.  Square up your ruler along one on the long (non-selvage) edges and cut a straight edge.

Trim away the selvage edge, squaring up your ruler with the straight edge you just cut.

Measuring from the straight edge along the long side (the first cut you made) and squaring up your ruler with the former selvage edge, cut three strips 5" x approximately 21".

Measuring from the squared-up (former selvage edge) of each strip, cut 4 squares, 5" x 5", for a total of 12 charm squares.

Cutting from Scraps and Fussy Cutting:

If you're cutting charm squares from scraps or odd cuts, a 5" x 5" ruler can be an invaluable aid.  Since the ruler is exactly the size of the square you want to cut, you can lay it on top of your fabric scraps and immediately now whether they're large enough.

If you're cutting charm squares from larger prints, it can be fun to "fussy cut" the print.  Fussy cutting is when you cut out a particular part of a print -- usually to center a particular image.  If you have a 5" x 5" ruler, you can simply move it around on top of your fabric until the part of the print you want to cut is framed beneath it.  Cut around all four sides of the ruler to produce your fussy-cut square.

 

Fussy cutting is obviously not the most conservative approach to using fabric, but the effect of fussy-cut squares in a quilt can be striking. 

If you don't have a 5" x 5" ruler, you can make your own guide by cutting a 5" x 5" square from translucent template plastic.  If you do this, I recommend drawing diagonal lines from corner to corner, as shown above.  This will allow you to easily pinpoint the center of your squares.

Once your template is in place, you can either trace around it with a fabric marking tool and cut it out with scissors or lay a quilting ruler on top of the template, carefully rotating the ruler to cut each side of the charm square.

Fussy-cut charm squares can make a great start to an "I-Spy" quilt for a child.  They also look great as the center square in a log cabin or square-in-square block.

I look forward to seeing everyone's squares at the PMQG meeting.  Even if you're not in Portland and/or coming to the meeting, I hope you've found something useful here!

Shiny New Directories

I've updated the sidebar directories, which will hopefully make it easier to find tutorials and older posts.  Just click on the buttons in the right sidebar for lists of links! 

Choosing Sashing Fabric

In preparation for posting the piecing directions for the Paintbox Quilt-Along top, I thought I would do a couple of quick posts about sashing fabric.  This one is about choosing different types of fabric.  The next will be about selecting colors for sashing.

 
Robert Kaufman Kona solid in Aqua

Mid-Weight Quilting Cotton

Regular cotton fabric made for quilting is probably the easiest and most economical choice for sashing.  It's sturdy, easy to work with, widely available, and it comes in hundreds of colors.  Quality quilting cottons include Robert Kaufman's Kona Solidsand Moda's Bella Solids. 

For a sturdy quilt that will wash and wear well, I recommend buying solids made by a reputable manufacturer of quilting fabric.  Chain stores offer cheaper solids and muslins, but they're not likely to wash and wear as well over time.  JoAnn does sell Kona cotton, but their selection (especially of neutrals and more subtle colors) is very limited.  I'm not going to pretend that I've never bought Kona from JoAnn in a pinch, but I do encourage you to check out the better variety and service available from independent shops.

(left to right) Kaffe Fassett Shot Cotton and Moda Cross-Weave 

Chambray Types

Most fabric is woven with the same color fibers throughout.  Chambray is made using different colors for the warp and weft, resulting in a richer, more interesting color.  Traditionally, chambray is made using a color for the warp and white for the weft.  You can find this kind of classic (usually light blue) shirting chambray in the apparel section of most fabric stores, but you can also buy beautiful chambray-like fabrics for quilting including Robert Kaufman Carolina Chambray, Kaffe Fassett Shot Cotton and Moda Cross-Weave.   

 
Robert Kaufman Carolina Chambray

In the photo above, you can see how a cyan and a chartreuse were woven together to create a rich sea-green chambray.  Chambray fabrics can look very different from one another, depending on how much contrast exists among the fibers used to weave the fabric. 

There's also a lot of variety in texture among the three chambray-types I named above.  In my experience, Carolina Chambray is more crisp and iridescent.  Shot Cottons are incredibly vibrant and surprisingly sturdy for their weight, and Cross-Weave is a little chunkier with more subtle color.  All are beautiful in person! 

When choosing a chambray for sashing, be aware that the weaving technique means that some (not all) chambray may look a slightly different color depending on your viewing angle.  This means that, if you use chambray for sashing, the vertical and horizontal pieces may, at certain angles, appear to have been cut from two slightly different fabrics.  Personally, I think this adds some depth and interest to a composition but, if you're concerned about keeping a very flat-looking surface, chambray types may not be for you. 

Robert Kaufman Aiden Linen in Natural

100% Linen

I think natural linen looks good with almost anything!  It's a lovely, casual fabric that can be made to look modern or kawaii, depending on your project.  Like anything else, paying for higher-quality linen will get you a better product.  My personal favorite is Robert Kaufman Aiden Linen. 

If you're not used to working with it, linen can be frustrating.  It's more loosely woven than quilting cottons, making it kind of floppy, especially when cut into strips.  The looser weave also means that it unravels pretty easily.  Using a starch alternative like Best Press can help to stabilize the linen, making it easier to piece. 

Robert Kaufman Essex Cotton/Linen in White

Cotton/Linen Blends

Those of you who read my blog regularly know how much I love cotton/linen blends for sashing.  I love that they have a slightly different texture than the blocks they're surrounding, and I find that the slightly heavier weight makes accurate piecing easier. 

I usually use Robert Kaufman's Essex.  Even if you haven't used a cotton/linen solid, you may be familiar with the weight and feel of the fabric since so many Japanese prints, notably much of Etsuko Furuya's Echino collection for Kokka, are cotton/linen blends. 

One thing to keep in mind about using both linen or cotton/linen in quilts is that they will add a bit of weight to your finished project.  If you want something warmer or sturdier (say a winter quilt or a picnic quilt) linen and cotton/linen make good choices.  For a summer-weight quilt, or a lightweight baby quilt, you may want to stick with straight cotton fabrics. 

Linen/Rayon Blends

Most shops that sell apparel fabric will have a selection of linen blends, especially linen/rayon.  I've used these for quilts before, but I worry about their lifespan.  I guess I think of them kind of like that rayon-blend cardigan that you might buy for the office.  It's inexpensive and perfectly serviceable, and it doesn't wrinkle too much but, after a few months of washings, it starts to look a little dull.  If I'm putting a lot of work into a quilt, I want to use something I know will hold up to years of washings!   

(left to right) Denim and Lightweight Shirting Cotton

Apparel Fabrics and Beyond

In my opinion, any stable woven fabric that can be ironed and washed can be suitable for a quilt.  Certain fabrics have certain limitations.  As long as you know and respect those limitations, I don't see any reason not to run wild in the fabric store and choose whatever you like best, even if it's not "supposed to" be used for quilting.  For instance, gray wool would make beautiful sashing for a winter quilt.  You'd just need to keep it out of the dryer!

The one thing I would caution you to look out for is stretch wovens.  Denim and other pant fabrics are sometimes sold with a little stretch, which is great for garment sewing, but can be horrible for quilting.  (This is also something to take into account if you're planning to recycle women's jeans.)    

Bed Sheets

Some quilters find bed sheets to be a cost-effective solid fabric alternative.  As you can see in the photo above, a higher-thread-count bed sheet is much smoother and has more sheen than a standard quilting cotton.  Personally, I've always found the juxtaposition of the shiny or slightly-sueded look of solid sheets and the look of quilting prints to be problematic, but many people don't mind it. 

If you're going to use sheets in your quilts, you will probably want to use a Microtex/Sharp needle to cause less disruption to the denser weave of the sheet.  If you send your quilts out to be quilted, keep in mind that many long-arm quilters do not accept quilts made with sheets, as the material is hard on their machines.

 
When in Doubt

If you decide to use a sashing fabric that you haven't used before, it can be a good idea to test it by making a small sample and running it through a wash cycle.  Build your sample using the same methods you'll use in your project -- including the same method of quilting and the same batting.  (You can skip the binding though -- just zigzag stitch around the edges to prevent fraying!) 

Wash your sample as you will the finished quilt.  Seeing how a sample like this responds in the wash can also help you to decide whether or not to prewash your sashing fabric.  Linen yardage in particular can get pretty unwieldy after going  through the wash, so testing to see if that prewash cycle is really necessary might save you a lot of headaches during the piecing process!

Online Sources for Solid Fabrics

Here are a few online resources for solid sashing fabric:

Sew, Mama, Sew! 

Pink Chalk Fabrics

Purlsoho

Have You Joined a Quilting Bee?

I've gotten a lot of questions about quilting bees during the past few days, so I thought I would post a little about what they are and how to find one.  Interspersed with all the explanations are photos of some of my favorite blocks that I've sewn for virtual quilting bees.

Virtual quilting bees are a lot of fun and I encourage everyone who can to join one!

June 2009 Blocks for Ashley W. for Block Party.  Ashley asked for block inspired by Denyse Schmidt's Drunk Love in a Log Cabin pattern.

What is a Quilting Bee?

Traditionally, a quilting "bee" was a gathering where a number of quilters would collaborate to complete a quilt in less time than it would take one person to do it alone.  Quilting bee quilts were usually made for a reason.  For example, to commemorate an occasion like a wedding, to produce a quilt to sell/raffle for a fund-raiser or to make quilts to donate to a charity.  Quilting bees were also a social event, where quilters could talk as they worked.  The quilts they produced were unique in that they included the creative work of many different people.

 
July 2009 Blocks for Nettie for Block Party.  Nettie also wanted blocks inspired by a Denyse Schmidt quilt: this one.  I used a freezer paper technique that I called Map of the States to make these.

How Does a Virtual Quilting Bee Work?

Virtual quilting bees take the collaborative aspect of a traditional quilting bee and put it to work over distance, using the Postal Service and the Internet.  

Most virtual quilting bees have 12 members and take place over one calendar year, with each member being responsible for coordinating one month.  In advance of the month, the member whose turn it is prepares packages of fabric and instructions to send to each of the other participants.  The other participants then create one or more blocks, which are returned to the sender.  After receiving all of the blocks, the member whose month it is should have enough blocks for an entire quilt.  This is repeated, over a year, until all members have had a turn.  There are lots of ways you can vary/personalize the process, but most virtual bees follow this basic structure.

 

January 2010 Blocks for Suzanne for Bee-autiful Quilting Bee.  Suzanne's theme was "Opposites Attract."  She asked for blocks with both quiet areas and areas with lots of activity.

Some Tips

If you're thinking about starting a bee, here are a few things to think about:

Postage can add up.  If you're concerned about the cost of postage, consider looking for bee members only in your part of the world.  Alternately, you can structure your bee where members always sew blocks from their own fabric stash, thus eliminating the need for everyone to send out packages of fabric each month.

Consider how much structure you want.  Will your bee use traditional block patterns, or will your members come up with more abstract ideas (e.g. blocks inspired by a photograph or color scheme)?  Maybe you want your bee to focus on one style of block all year.  As long as your whole group is on board, anything goes!

Discuss your skill level openly with other members.  Are you terrified of sewing curves?  Does the idea of paper piecing make you want to hide under your sewing table?  I always want to encourage people to try new things, but the stress of trying new things in the context of making a block for someone else can turn a fun bee into drudgery.  I recommend having this kind of discussion among your members before you start.   

Please be respectful of other people's property and copyright.  Unless you have permission from the author, it's almost never okay to copy patterns and send them to other people.  If you want your fellow bee members to follow an online tutorial, please provide them with a link to the pattern/tutorial on the author's site.

Take advantage of free online resources to organize your bee.  Flickr Groups and free blogging services are easy to use and can give you a place for your bee members to "meet." 

 
February 2009 Blocks for Ashley S. for Block Party.  Ashley wanted Spiderweb Blocks made with natural linen and paper foundation piecing.  We used an online tutorial from Quiltville.  

Where Do I Sign Up?

By the time photos of blocks start showing up online, the bee they're affiliated with is usually already full.  However, there are new bees starting all the time.  I can recommend two great Flickr resources for finding bees that need members (or finding people to join a bee that you're starting).

Quilting Bee Blocks features photos of more than 2,700 different photos of blocks made for quilting bees.  The discussion section of this group is always busy with people looking to join or start a new bee.

Block Party Quilt-Along is an outgrowth of the forthcoming Block Party, the book.  The discussion thread of this pool is also a good place to post about new bees and look for ones to join.  And, if you can't find or don't want to join a bee, you can always participate in the quilt along from the Block Party Blog.  (Hint: There's a new tutorial up today!)

Please keep in mind that the moderators of these Flickr Pools are not responsible for setting you up with a bee or with coordinating existing bees.  Once you've found other interested bee members, I suggest exchanging e-mails via Flickr Mail and then taking the discussion of specifics off Flickr.

Do you have more advice about starting bees?  Do you have a bee that's looking for members?  Post about it in the comments!