In preparation for posting the piecing directions for the Paintbox Quilt-Along top, I thought I would do a couple of quick posts about sashing fabric. This one is about choosing different types of fabric. The next will be about selecting colors for sashing.
Robert Kaufman Kona solid in Aqua
Mid-Weight Quilting Cotton
Regular cotton fabric made for quilting is probably the easiest and most economical choice for sashing. It's sturdy, easy to work with, widely available, and it comes in hundreds of colors. Quality quilting cottons include Robert Kaufman's Kona Solidsand Moda's Bella Solids.
For a sturdy quilt that will wash and wear well, I recommend buying solids made by a reputable manufacturer of quilting fabric. Chain stores offer cheaper solids and muslins, but they're not likely to wash and wear as well over time. JoAnn does sell Kona cotton, but their selection (especially of neutrals and more subtle colors) is very limited. I'm not going to pretend that I've never bought Kona from JoAnn in a pinch, but I do encourage you to check out the better variety and service available from independent shops.
(left to right) Kaffe Fassett Shot Cotton and Moda Cross-Weave
Chambray Types
Most fabric is woven with the same color fibers throughout. Chambray is made using different colors for the warp and weft, resulting in a richer, more interesting color. Traditionally, chambray is made using a color for the warp and white for the weft. You can find this kind of classic (usually light blue) shirting chambray in the apparel section of most fabric stores, but you can also buy beautiful chambray-like fabrics for quilting including Robert Kaufman Carolina Chambray, Kaffe Fassett Shot Cotton and Moda Cross-Weave.
Robert Kaufman Carolina Chambray
In the photo above, you can see how a cyan and a chartreuse were woven together to create a rich sea-green chambray. Chambray fabrics can look very different from one another, depending on how much contrast exists among the fibers used to weave the fabric.
There's also a lot of variety in texture among the three chambray-types I named above. In my experience, Carolina Chambray is more crisp and iridescent. Shot Cottons are incredibly vibrant and surprisingly sturdy for their weight, and Cross-Weave is a little chunkier with more subtle color. All are beautiful in person!
When choosing a chambray for sashing, be aware that the weaving technique means that some (not all) chambray may look a slightly different color depending on your viewing angle. This means that, if you use chambray for sashing, the vertical and horizontal pieces may, at certain angles, appear to have been cut from two slightly different fabrics. Personally, I think this adds some depth and interest to a composition but, if you're concerned about keeping a very flat-looking surface, chambray types may not be for you.
Robert Kaufman Aiden Linen in Natural
100% Linen
I think natural linen looks good with almost anything! It's a lovely, casual fabric that can be made to look modern or kawaii, depending on your project. Like anything else, paying for higher-quality linen will get you a better product. My personal favorite is Robert Kaufman Aiden Linen.
If you're not used to working with it, linen can be frustrating. It's more loosely woven than quilting cottons, making it kind of floppy, especially when cut into strips. The looser weave also means that it unravels pretty easily. Using a starch alternative like Best Press can help to stabilize the linen, making it easier to piece.
Robert Kaufman Essex Cotton/Linen in White
Cotton/Linen Blends
Those of you who read my blog regularly know how much I love cotton/linen blends for sashing. I love that they have a slightly different texture than the blocks they're surrounding, and I find that the slightly heavier weight makes accurate piecing easier.
I usually use Robert Kaufman's Essex. Even if you haven't used a cotton/linen solid, you may be familiar with the weight and feel of the fabric since so many Japanese prints, notably much of Etsuko Furuya's Echino collection for Kokka, are cotton/linen blends.
One thing to keep in mind about using both linen or cotton/linen in quilts is that they will add a bit of weight to your finished project. If you want something warmer or sturdier (say a winter quilt or a picnic quilt) linen and cotton/linen make good choices. For a summer-weight quilt, or a lightweight baby quilt, you may want to stick with straight cotton fabrics.
Linen/Rayon Blends
Most shops that sell apparel fabric will have a selection of linen blends, especially linen/rayon. I've used these for quilts before, but I worry about their lifespan. I guess I think of them kind of like that rayon-blend cardigan that you might buy for the office. It's inexpensive and perfectly serviceable, and it doesn't wrinkle too much but, after a few months of washings, it starts to look a little dull. If I'm putting a lot of work into a quilt, I want to use something I know will hold up to years of washings!
(left to right) Denim and Lightweight Shirting Cotton
Apparel Fabrics and Beyond
In my opinion, any stable woven fabric that can be ironed and washed can be suitable for a quilt. Certain fabrics have certain limitations. As long as you know and respect those limitations, I don't see any reason not to run wild in the fabric store and choose whatever you like best, even if it's not "supposed to" be used for quilting. For instance, gray wool would make beautiful sashing for a winter quilt. You'd just need to keep it out of the dryer!
The one thing I would caution you to look out for is stretch wovens. Denim and other pant fabrics are sometimes sold with a little stretch, which is great for garment sewing, but can be horrible for quilting. (This is also something to take into account if you're planning to recycle women's jeans.)
Bed Sheets
Some quilters find bed sheets to be a cost-effective solid fabric alternative. As you can see in the photo above, a higher-thread-count bed sheet is much smoother and has more sheen than a standard quilting cotton. Personally, I've always found the juxtaposition of the shiny or slightly-sueded look of solid sheets and the look of quilting prints to be problematic, but many people don't mind it.
If you're going to use sheets in your quilts, you will probably want to use a Microtex/Sharp needle to cause less disruption to the denser weave of the sheet. If you send your quilts out to be quilted, keep in mind that many long-arm quilters do not accept quilts made with sheets, as the material is hard on their machines.
When in Doubt
If you decide to use a sashing fabric that you haven't used before, it can be a good idea to test it by making a small sample and running it through a wash cycle. Build your sample using the same methods you'll use in your project -- including the same method of quilting and the same batting. (You can skip the binding though -- just zigzag stitch around the edges to prevent fraying!)
Wash your sample as you will the finished quilt. Seeing how a sample like this responds in the wash can also help you to decide whether or not to prewash your sashing fabric. Linen yardage in particular can get pretty unwieldy after going through the wash, so testing to see if that prewash cycle is really necessary might save you a lot of headaches during the piecing process!
Online Sources for Solid Fabrics
Here are a few online resources for solid sashing fabric:
Sew, Mama, Sew!
Pink Chalk Fabrics
Purlsoho