Tokyo Subway Map: Basic Block Piecing and Block 1 of 25

This is a post about the Tokyo Subway Map Quilt-Along, which you can join at any time.  You don't have to sign up anywhere but, if you like, you can join our Flickr Group, which also includes a Q&A Thread about the quilt-along. 

 
l mentioned the Q&A Thread in the intro above, but wanted to mention it again because, if you asked a question in the comments to the last post, I may have answered it there.  If you have other general questions (not specifically about piecing this block) that would be a great place for them.

So, here's Block 1 (aka the upper-left corner).  It's not much yet, but I can already tell this is going to be a fantastic quilt!

 

Here's an illustration showing the 8 x 8 layout of the block.  If you have a portable electronic device like a laptop or i-Phone, I'd like to encourage you to "save a tree" and use it for reference when piecing these 25 blocks.  (Just don't set your laptop on your cutting mat.  I learned that one the hard way!)  Alternately I've linked a pdf version below. 

Download Tokyo Subway Map - Block1

The "X"s on the pattern indicate the placement of the colored solid fabrics.  If you follow my prints vs. solids layout, including the proportion of prints to solids I listed in the cutting instructions, you'll end up with prints and solids evenly distributed across the quilt top and one solid square of each different-colored line in each block through which that line passes. 

 
Start by laying out your fabric squares in the arrangement indicated in the pattern. 

I noticed, as I was cutting my fabrics, that some of my sets of squares included a rather wide range of value (lightness or darkness).  Because the piecing layout is all about lines running around the quilt, I'm going to pay attention to that when I'm placing the squares in each block.  If you look closely at the way I arranged my gray squares above, you can see that the ones on the left side are lighter.  I intentionally put the light squares together and the dark squares together.  My hope is that, if I continue to do this in each block, it will give a look of flow and movement in the finished quilt. 

 
Once you're happy with your arrangement, stack each row of squares, from left to right, with the top square in each stack being the one that was formerly on the far left and the bottom square being the one that was formerly on the far right.  Keep the stacks of squares in the same arrangement of 8 rows, so that you can easily identify their proper order.

 
Working from the bottom or the top (it doesn't matter which -- just keep track of which is which) piece each row of squares together.  Rather than chain piecing, which I find can easily confuse the order, I suggest starting with the top (left-most) square in the stack and sewing the next square to its right side.  Repeat, sewing each square to the right side of the previous square, until you have the whole row sewn together.

As long as you're carefully lining up the squares as you go, there should be no need for pins or to stop and press between seams.  Just focus on keeping the squares lined up and your seam allowance consistent.  If you have a seam guide (like the one I'm using in the above photo) or a 1/4 inch foot, you may find it useful here.  Low-tech solutions like putting a strip of blue painter's tape on your machine can also be helpful.

There's no getting around the fact that these little squares can be kind of fussy to piece.  Accurate piecing is going to be important to the look of your finished quilt, but please don't go crazy trying to perfect everything.  The two things to focus on here are sewing straight seams and using a consistent seam allowance.  For this project, it is not essential that your seam allowance be a perfect 1/4 inch.  You just need to keep it the same throughout the project.  If following the edge of your 3/8" wide foot is easiest, by all means do that!  It will mean that your finished top is a few inches smaller, but will probably save you a lot of headache. 

 
Use the same method to sew each row together and press all seams open.  Return the rows to their original arrangement on your work surface. 

If you're having trouble with your squares separating, it may mean that you're using a too-long stitch length.  I had mine set at 2 and found that worked fine.  Your machine may have a different scale, so play around with some scraps to determine what you think will work best for you.

 
Pin the fourth and fifth rows (the two rows at the center of the block) together, matching seam allowances.  When I piece identical rows like this, I like to start by matching up the center and pinning outward to each side.  Since these squares are so little, I used a single pin to secure all of the seam allowances between each square. 

Use more pins, if it makes you more comfortable, but don't stretch or warp your work to make things match.  Remember that, when you join these two pieced rows, making a straight seam will be your goal.  It's inevitable that, somewhere in your quilt, there will be something a bit "off."  Don't let it get you down.  Just be a little strategic.  For instance, in this block, matching the pieces of that red line is more of a priority than making each and every white square match.

Continue adding rows to the top and bottom of the two you've just joined, until all rows are joined, pressing seams open.  Unlike when we were sewing the squares into rows, it's fairly important to stop and press each longer seam before moving on to the next, as this will allow you to see how things are lining up and make little adjustments, if necessary.

 
Square up the sides of your block, but be careful not to take off too much.  I like to measure out from the nearest seam allowance, which is easy to do with this gridded block.  If you're using 2" squares and a 1/4" seam allowance, your cutting line should measure 1 3/4" out from the seam allowance nearest each edge. 

A finished block made with 2" squares and a 1/4" seam allowance should theoretically measure 12 1/2" x 12 1/2".  However, as I mentioned above, in this project having straight, consistent, seams is far more important than hitting that exact number. 

 
That's it!  This first block may go slowly but I'm sure that, as we move on to Blocks 2 through 25, the process will get easier.

Comments

[Leslie Schmidt]

I love your directions. They are so precise and make perfect sense. Thanks!

[Aniza]

thanks a lot for the instructions. Very nice & clear.

[Sabah]

The pictures are very tempting!

All the neatly opened seams... sigh

[Jeannette]

Thank you for posting the instructions, love it!

[Suzanne]

This post was really helpful even though I am not participating in the quilt along. As a result of reading your blog for a while, I started pressing my seams as you showed above. I am so happy with how flat they come out! I was happy to learn that you are a pinner too. It makes my blocks line up so much better. Thanks for all of your instruction.

[Margaret]

Wish I could participate! I am saving all the instructions and hope to make one of these eventually (after school is finished). I agree, its going to be a fantastic quilt.

[Kati]

I also want to thank you for your suggestions and clear instructions. I press my seams open now and my machine quilter has thanked me for having my tops so flat for her!

[Sequana]

I used to have one of those little seam guides. I wonder where it is? I've been using tape, but this would be even better.

[Alissa]

Good on your for daring to say out loud "it is not essential that you have a perfect 1/4 seam allowance." I feel like any time I say that around a certain type of quilter they freak - as though I'm automatically saying you can have a smaller seam allowance and your first born has been kidnapped. No - I mean it doesn't matter if it's ever so slightly bigger. Improv piecing or a pattern where you keep it all the same it's FINE! Ok - rant over. Sorry. And PS - what a rockin' quilt it's gonna be!

[nettie]

oh man, i want to make this quilt sooo bad, but I just can't get into something new right now. hopefully i can come back to it later, it's going to be amazing!

[Nancy]

Thanks for this modern pattern. I plan to make this quilt, but not right now. So, I'm glad that you will allow me to save it for later.

Thanks for the tip of using thrifted shirts. I just purchased 30 "like new" men's long sleeve shirts at 3 for $.99 from the Salvation Army. I may use some of them to make another Clothesline quilt. However, I want to also make a bowtie and an airplane quilt.

[Barbara Good]

I love this pattern .. i have fabric so im gonna start my quilt TODAY .I really needed something to give me a jump start , this did it. thank you so much . i also have a seam gide , but i think there is a gide on the foot also . what do you think?
Barbara (texasquilter )

[Cameron H]

This is looking great! I've got a good start on cutting colored squares and look forward to piecing soon. And I want to echo the praise for your great, clear instructions. A quick question: do you think it would change the look of the quilt too much to cut larger strips of white (rather than individual squares)? For example, cutting an 8x2 strip for the bottom right (next-to-last row) bit of white on this block?

[Elizabeth]

I do think it would change the look of the quilt to use longer strips, because then you wouldnt have a 40 x 40 grid of squares. I considered it, but decided that I thought the quilt would look better all in squares.

[Jodi]

Fantastic instructions! You write the best tutorials/quilt-a-longs. Exactly what I needed at the end of a too-long day of teaching middle schoolers. Something creative, but not requiring excess amounts of brain power just to understand what's going on.

Posted my block on flickr! Can't wait to start the next one!! (Shh! Don't tell that I don't have all my squares cut out yet! I haven't yet done all the white ones...)

[Ansje]

Oh, that is going to be so awesome! Even though I have 2 quilt along quilts waiting in line to be quilted, I just can't resist this one!
One question: Are the solids all the same shade of pink, red, blue, etc, or are they variants of the colors?

[Caro]

Wonderful job. Can you tell me what type of sewing machine you have and the sewing guide that is shown in one of your photos.
Thanks, casands1@comcast.net

[Paula]

Yay! I'm going to get started right now ... Thank you for the wonderful instructions and tips!

[Mario]

where did you get the side foot attachment for your machine? Looks interesting?

[Jenette Buentiempo]

Yes, what is that foot called? I hope I can get my seams as straight as yours!