Oh, Fransson!: August 2008

ETA 10/12/08: This post talks about how to make the blocks. For photos of the finished quilt, check out this post.

After the swap, I ended up with several really great fruit and berries fat quarters cut from sheets and tablecloths. I wanted to make them into something that would highlight the great prints and maintain the retro look of a vintage fruit tablecloth. I'd been wanting for a while to do a modified log cabin block with rick-rack pieced into the seams and this seemed a perfect project for that.

The following directions are for 12.5" (12" finished) blocks. To make a quilt top with 20 blocks (4 wide by 5 tall) you'll need:

20 - 4" squares fussy cut from vintage sheets and tablecloths.
5/8 Yard each of four coordinating polka dot fabrics with colored grounds, cut into 2" strips. I used Moda's Friends and Flowers in red, yellow, green and blue.
Four 2 1/2 yard packages each of Medium Rick Rack in four colors to match your polka dot fabric. I used Scarlet, Dark Banana, Leaf Green, and Delft.
2.5" strips cut from Vintage Linens. For each block, you'll need two 8" strips and two 11" strips. (If you're using fat quarters from the swap, I suggest using 10 fat quarters and cutting enough strips for two blocks from each.)

Note 1: These measurements and fabric amounts are based on my quick-piecing method, which is detailed below. To save time and guarantee accuracy, I cut all of my strips 1/4" wider and slightly longer than necessary and then trim them to the right size after each seam is sewn. While I don't find that this wastes an extraordinary amount of fabric, it's probably not the best method for squeezing the absolute most out of your fabric.

Note 2: Vintage sheets can be pesky to patchwork piece with. A lot of them are made with no-wrinkle 50/50 blends that make pressing a crisp fold difficult to impossible. Because I was planning to free-motion quilt this top, I didn't worry about it on these blocks. (Because the free-motion quilting will tack everything down.) If you're doing less quilting, you might consider backing the pieces cut from sheets with muslin or a lightweight fusible interfacing.

If you're making a quilt that will be washed, I suggest pre-washing your rick-rack. You'll need to first stitch back and forth across the end of each piece to keep it from unraveling. Wash the rick-rack inside a lingerie bag and put it in the washer and dryer with your other fabrics.

When your rick-rack comes out of the washer, it will be kind of bumpy looking. You can press it flat using your iron with a little bit of steam.

Start by choosing one of the 4" fussy cut squares. Choose the rick-rack color you'd like to start with and cut four pieces slightly longer than the 4" block. Adjust your stitch length up and your tension down a step or two and carefully stitch the rick-rack strips to the edges of the square. Make sure to keep your stitches close to the edge -- not down the center of the rick-rack. You may need to stop and start your stitching several times as you move the rick rack into the proper position. Take your time and make sure your needle is in the down position each time you stop.

Trim the excess rick-rack and thread from corners to form a perfect square.

Here's where that quick-piecing method comes in . . . Choose one of your polka dot strips (which have been cut into 2" strips along the width of the fabric). Cut two strips slightly wider that your square. Readjust your tension and stitch length (back to normal) and sew one to the top and one to the bottom, using a 1/4" seam allowance. If your rick-rack is positioned perfectly -- right along the edge of the square -- your seam should run right through the middle. Press fabric and seams away from the center and use your rotary cutting tools to trim the edges so they line up perfectly with the center square, as shown in the top left photo.

Now, cut two more strips from your polka dot fabric, this time slightly taller than the block (including the polka dot piecing you just sewed on). Sew these strips to the left and right sides of the block, again pressing all fabric and seam allowances toward the outside.

Use your rotary cutter and ruler to trim each side of the block so the polka dot strips measure 1 1/2" from the seam where they meet the center square. You'll be cutting off about 1/4". Note how, in the top right photo, the grid-lines on the ruler are lined up not only along the right side of the center square, but along the bottom. This ensures that you not only have straight sides, but also perfect 90% corners.

Repeat the last few steps with your vintage linen strips but, this time, trim the strips to 2" from the seam where they meet the polka dot fabric.

Once again, increase your stitch length and lower your tension. Cut four strips of rick-rack slightly longer than the sides of your block and, using the same method your did with the center square, stitch the rick-rack to all four sides. Trim corners and return machine settings back to "normal."

Using the same method you used before, add polka dot strips to the top and bottom, and then to the left and right sides of the block. One again, press all seams to the outside and trim the polka dot fabric so that it measures 1 1/2" from the seam where it meets the vintage linen fabric.

Your block is done!

When I made my blocks, I chose the color arrangements so that all four colors (red, yellow, green and blue) would be represented in each block. I also paired cool colors and warm colors, The red and yellow polka dot fabrics are used on blocks with the green and blue rick-rack. The green and blue polka dots are used on blocks with the red and yellow rick rack.

These are my Style A blocks. Yellow polka dots in the middle and red on the outside. I did some of the blocks with the green rick-rack on the inside and blue on the outside and some the opposite. I like how that adds a little more variety. I made five of these blocks.

These are the Style B blocks. Red on the inside and yellow on the outside with green and blue rick-rack. I made five of these blocks.

And the Style C Blocks, with blue dots on the inside and green on the outside with alternating red and yellow rick-rack. I made five of these blocks too.

Finally, here are the Style D Blocks. Green on the inside and blue on the outside with red and yellow rick-rack. I made, you guessed it, five of these blocks.

(You can click on the above photos to see the full view. Typepad's new formatting tools and I haven't been getting along and I can't get these to post without being either tiny or cut-off.)

I arranged my blocks four across and five down and sewed them together with 2 1/2" white linen sashing.

I'm currently working on free-motion quilting this project. It's challenging to avoid the rick-rack, but I'm liking the way it looks! I'll post photos of the finished product when it's done. I have some awesome red and white seersucker for the binding that I can't wait to use.

This is my first attempt at making a cross-body sling-style bag. It's still not perfect, but it could definitely be worse. I had originally intended to make the bag from some Nigella fabric I had left over but, like an idiot, I cut the handle the wrong way (fold on the wrong end) and then didn't have enough. My husband chose this fabric, which he though Margaret would like better anyway. It's a linen blend screen printed with royal blue flowers.

I made a single pleat in both sides of the bag and both sides of the lining to make the bag a little more spacious.

I wasn't sure I would be able to put pockets in the pleated lining, but I ended up adding patch pockets to either side of the pleat on one of the lining panels and was pretty happy with the way they turned out.

I boxed the bottom corners to both give the bag more depth and allow it to stand up on its own. I added lightweight fusible interfacing to the linen blend, since it was very lightweight. The lining is a mid-weight twill and I added a flannel interlining. The bag is a little floppier than I normally like, but I think the floppiness is better for a bag that will be carrying a lot of stuff.

I was also very excited to find a home for this awesome vintage button, which matched the fabric perfectly. I'd never made a fabric button loop like this before, but it's actually pretty cool and holds the bag together nicely.

All in all, I was happy with this bag. Margaret seemed to like it too, which was really the point. I will definitely being using/refining this pattern again.